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Firing that hinge

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  • Firing that hinge

    I've spent some time in the other winter working with my Tru Ball HT 3 finger hinge release. I feel I've made some progress but I'm still not happy with the results.

    Some folks I've talked to about getting a hinge to fire say that the best way is to ease pressure on the index finger and add pressure to the ring finger.

    The floor is open for discussion.

  • #2
    I first set mine to the point it wont go off when I draw and did that till it was comfortable with the position and so forth.
    Second I started lightening up the release till when I was at full draw it would click around the time I was staring at the spot I wanted to hit.
    Third I set it to click when I get to full draw and acquire my target, then as I apply my push with my bow arm and get to about the pound of forward push it clicks and I know its now time to get even more serious with the spot im staring at and finish applying my push pull aim method till the arrow is in the target.
    I feel a hing must be set to the person shooting it. I will never ever let my hinge get set for another shooter to try ever ever again.
    (TruBall HT4 pro brass)


    • #3
      Some people I've talked to about firing their hinge advocate transferring pressure from the index finger to the lesser fingers.

      This done rather than depending on the back muscle contractions.


      • #4
        You gotter Carlos !!! ---- Then some people just "grip it n' rip it" !!!


        • #5
          Like to see Dee step in.

          I've tried the hinge so many times and the best I could do is set it somewhat warm (not hot) and hang on until it fired. This was with the Stanislawski Deuce, two finger. Draw, get on target, start aiming, release the thumb peg and wait. Most people already have tension so "just hanging on," waiting, can let the shot happen. Not really desired in most cases. Perhaps indoors. I did shoot a 299 the first time I used the Deuce on the 5 spot, but lacking confidence, back to the ST360.

          Carlos, the Scepter V has a positive draw stop. Okay, said is the like of a little give to set things in motion. If you think you Scepter V has a rock hard wall, you should try my Pearson MarXman with top and bottom limb stops.

          Here's a piece by Mahley;
          The way I fire a hinge, is by using back tension exclusively. SOME people roll the hinge to get it to fire...either by adding tension to the ring and bad finger, or relaxing the index, or a combination of both. THOSE people won't have a big issue shooting a hinge on a bow with limb stops.

          Those of use who use back tension exclusively need the back wall to have a little bit of movement. Adding back tension gives radial motion to the release shoulder. THAT is the movement that fires the release. You can think of it as dropping your release elbow, but however you look at it, there needs to be some movement to fire the hinge.

          With a thumb trigger you do not need ANY movement, just pressure. Your thumb trigger doesn't move more than a imperceptible amount. So solid limb stops are beneficial."

          I have the Stanislawski MoreX releases with safety cross pin. Shot, fire, all day and never launch a arrow. Yep, set release and train right in your house. So super easy to adjust and I can't find the set for me perfect. And then none other than Randy Ulmer said to put aside all other releases and use the hinge. Kind of hard when you shoot 3D every weekend...or having the confidence in the release you put aside.
          So I stick with my TRU Ball ST360. Draw, anchor, get on target and just add a bit pressure, snap, the arrow is gone.
          Now, if the arrow would just go where I wanted it......

          Good luck....


          • #6
            I find myself depending more and more on using changing the finger pressure to fire the release. It is still a surprise (somewhat) but I feel like I'm "cheating" doing it that way.


            • #7
              If you recall, that was one of the first ways I suggested to you along with removing the thumb peg, so you aint dealing with opposite pressures--- things go a lot easier.


              • #8
                Daniel Boone post sometime back, in AT General Discussion... Seems more good shooters cheat the release than use back tension.
                Last edited by SonnyThomas; 04-16-2014, 06:14 PM.


                • #9
                  Can someone tell me is there a dif in using a wrist strap an hinge if using a wrist strap u draw anchor lay finger on trigger an close your shoulder blades . I have tried a hand Held an can not seam to b able to hold steady enough on the target an target panic starts creeping in this small brain thanks for any info


                  • #10
                    I used a wrist caliper release for many years, and I quit using it, because I got target panic reeeeal bad, and was either ending up freezing on the trigger, or giving it a big jerk. I then went to a "thumb" release, and although I started out shooting it very well, I eventually encountered the same problem with it. I then went to a back tension release, a TRU Ball Sweetspot with a safety, and I have never looked back. Don't get me wrong, I IN FACT DO get times when I "freeze up" on it --- I am sure those of you I have shot with have witnessed that, but it is nowhere near as often, or as bad as what it used to be like. I find I have the greatest difficulty when I am under an intense pressure situation. I actually think the bottomline on this, is that "pressure" causes my form to break down. Using a BT release it is necessary to keep your hand with release in line --- not cocked off to the side. All-in-all, each one of us has to use the type of release, that fits us the best, and works out the best for ourselves --- not someone else, and UNFORTUNATELY, I think each and every one of us has "target panic" in us, and it rears up its ugly head altogether too often.

                    Oh well.


                    • #11
                      Older, I swear, there must be a 1000 hinge procedures out there, from real cheat to true back tension and everything in between.

                      If only we'd get our brain out of the way or at least quit thinking without falling asleep.

                      Index release, used one for years and shot some of best ever scores. For the life of me, I don't know what possessed me to switch to a thumb release.
                      Okay, you draw, you anchor, acquire target, place finger on trigger and forget everything except aiming until after the shot happens. Yep, no thinking. What it is, me anyway, when you draw you've already have pressure exerted. Just maintaining that pressure will make the release fire. Yeah, you don't think, just keep pressure on or as they say, back tension. It's no different with a thumb release. Hang on until the shot breaks. Okay, don't force it either.

                      My TRU Ball ST360 thumb release, I have it set heavy with the heavy spring. To just snap it you'd think it won't hardly go off. So I get a real feel of the barrel - like leaning on it. Anchored and aiming this release fires without thought...Slicker 'n all get out...

                      ____ edit - fingers can't keep up with what I think
                      Last edited by SonnyThomas; 04-17-2014, 10:16 PM.


                      • #12
                        O ok I got it ?


                        • #13
                          I got it too --- got what ??? --- If ya ain't got it, get it --- no, ya don't want it --- or do you ??? --- gosh Older,yer a mess.


                          • #14
                            I agree with most of what you wrote. I have a couple of ideas too, but they are nothing new.

                            I think you still have to use some back tension on a thumb button. IMHO they are harder to shoot correctly than a hinge. Shooters tend to collapse shooting a thumb button. You can see their elbow coming to the front as they are applying pressure to the button. If they use a slight rotation while adding pressure to the button it results in a cleaner shot and a more dynamic (not violent) release.

                            For the hinge I prefer a click set at the point that you transfer to back tension after anchor. that should be a form check as well as a warning that you are at ready-go stage. The thinner ledge .002 or .004 will make it so that you can use just back tension rotation if you want, not pulling back on the string against the stops, to activate the release. Still most folks use back tension and ring finger or pinky finger pressure to help rotate the release.

                            The issue that I have found is that most people don't know what "back tension" is and have never felt it. That's another matter and for another discussion.

                            Happy Hinging :-)




                            • #15
                              I no if I was not a mess I would b nothing I guess (just saying)